To add a single receptacle that's mounted on an exterior wall, it's usually best to tap into a nearby interior receptacle, such as one in a bedroom or living room. Do not tie into circuits for heavy-duty units like dishwashers, dryers and heaters; those circuits are already dedicated to these high-draw appliances. To get the power you need for an outdoor receptacle without risking overload, it's best to feed from a 20-amp circuit rather than a 15-amp one.

One more detail worth noting: there are two kinds of exterior box covers. One has a spring-type lid that are weathertight only when shut. The other cover's lid is rated to be watertight while in use. If you intend to keep something plugged into your outdoor receptacle Christmas lights, for example the cover must be labeled "watertight while in use". It's against code to keep something plugged into the spring-lid type.

Tools & Materials:
Plug-in receptacle tester 20-amp GFCI receptacle Screwdriver All-weather outlet box Long-nose pliers Spring-loaded outlet cover or Watertight outlet cover Drill 12-2 NM-B cable with ground	1/8" drill bit Cable clamps Spade bits Clear silicone caulk Caulking gun Wire connectors Lineman's pliers Wire stripper

Step by Step Instructions: 1. Tap into a receptacle: Turn off the power to the receptacle, and check it with a plug-in tester to verify that the power is off. Remove the cover plate and unscrew the two screws that hold the receptacle to the outlet box. Pull the receptacle out of the box as far as it will go, and disconnect it by removing all the wires from its terminals. If the box is metal, remove the mounting screws from the wall and gently pull the old outlet box a few inches out of the wall and push it to the side. If the existing wires are too short to let you do that, detach them from the box. Then use a slotted screwdriver with a broad blade to break off or pry open a knockout anywhere in the box. This is where your new cable will come in to feed the outdoor receptacle.

If the box is plastic, you may need to use a hacksaw to cut the mounting nails that extend into the adjacent stud. Removing the box could be so messy that you should find another source of power, like tapping into a cable in the basement. 2. Run cable to the new box: With the old outlet box pulled off to the side, you should now be able to see into the wall cavity. Pull apart the insulation and make sure that there's nothing inside the wall such as plumbing that you could damage by drilling into the wall from the outside. For ease of installation, the new outside outlet box should be in the same wall cavity as the box you're tapping into, or just below that cavity, in a joist space that's accessible from the basement or crawl space. Walk outside and try to find the exact spot where the wall cavity is. If you're not sure, drill a tiny (1/8" diameter) hole from inside to outside to provide a reference point. (Seal it later with clear silicone caulk.) You can use the same strategy to locate the joist space below the box, this time drilling through the floor. Use a 1/2" spade bit to drill up into the wall cavity from below, as shown. Pick a spot on the exterior wall that will allow the back of the new outlet box to fit flat against it. It doesn't matter if the wall siding is angled as long you can mount the box flat. At this spot, drill a 1 1/4" diameter hole that's 5/8" deep; this hole provides clearance space for the cable clamp on the backside of the box, so it can lie flush to the siding. Then, using a 1/2" spade bit, finish drilling through the exterior wall and into the wall cavity or joist space. (You could, of course, drill all the way through the wall with a 1 1/4" spade bit, but a 1/2" hole is easier to caulk and big enough to accommodate the cable.) Push the length of new cable through the hole and into the wall cavity or joist space. Then fish the cable up through the old receptacle cutout. For now, leave 8 to 10 inches of slack cable sticking out beyond the siding and interior wallboard.

3. Mount the new watertight box outside: Bring the new cable through a hole in the back of the outdoor outlet box, securing it to the back of the box with a cable clamp. Fill the hole with silicone caulk and screw the box into place (the clamp will fit into the 1 1/4" wide hole), then caulk all around the joint between the outlet box and the siding. For a joist space installation, use the same caulk to fill the voids around the cable where it penetrates the joist. 4. Hook up the outside wires: Now you're ready to hook up your wiring. Cut away any cable that extends more than 4 inches beyond the front of the box. Strip all but 1/2" of the sheathing off the cable; that 1/2" section is the portion resting beneath the clamp. Then strip 1/2 inch of insulation off the individual wire ends. Find the two LINE terminals on the GFCI receptacle. Ignore the LOAD terminals, because you will not be extending the circuit beyond this receptacle. Attach the black wire to the LINE gold screw and the white wire to the LINE silver screw. If the outdoor box is metal, you'll need to ground it: Loop the bare copper grounding wire under the box's ground screw before you attach it to the receptacle, and tighten the box's ground screw. Then attach the grounding wire to the receptacle's green screw. Once done, stuff the receptacle into the box, fit the gasket over it and install the weatherproof cover. You're done outside.

5. Rewire the interior receptacle: Back at the interior outlet box, use a cable clamp to connect the new cable to the box (some old metal boxes won't need a clamp) and remount the box in the wall. You'll likely have two or three cables now. If there are only two (one original cable feeding the box, plus your new cable), you can strip and secure the black and white wires from the new cable to the receptacle (black to brass, white to silver). If there are three cables (two existing cables and the new one) and the receptacle's terminals are filled, use a wire connector to splice all the black wires together along with a short "jumper" wire that can be attached to one of the brass-colored "hot" screws on the receptacle. (The jumper wire provides a bridge between the spliced wires and the receptacle.) Splice the white wires and the ground wires in the same manner and attach both of these jumper wires to their respective screws, as shown. Once all splices and connections have been made, gently fold the wires back into the outlet box, screw the receptacle back into its place and reinstall its cover plate.

6. Test your work: Turn the power back on, and check both receptacles for proper wiring with a plug-in tester. At your new outside receptacle, press the GFCI's TEST button. It should trip off with an audible click, and the lights on the plug-in tester should go out. Press RESET. You're done. Tim Snyder: Writer, photographer and carpenter, was a senior editor at Fine Homebuilding magazine and executive editor of American Woodworker magazine. With TV personality Norm Abram, Snyder coauthored two books in the best-selling New Yankee Workshop series. He's also written books on deck design and furniture making.

Double Gang Weatherproof In-Use Receptacle Cover - Home Depot.com

• Watertight / Weatherproof • Vertical mount • Polycarbonate base and cover • Includes weatherproof gasket and mounting screws • Six snap-together patented inserts • Seventy configurations, one cover

Outdoor Electrical Safety: These helpful hints are brought to you by The Home Depot and the Electrical Safety Foundation International. Working in the Yard Shouldn’t Be a Schocking Experience Most of us think that we know enough about electricity to stay safe. After all, we are surrounded by it and use it everyday. However, each year hundreds of people die, thousands are injured and mil-lions of dollars in property damage are caused by electrical hazards that could have been avoided. Whether you are just headed out to do a little work in the yard or are off to take on more ambitious outdoor projects, following these few tips can help protect you, your home and your family from harm. Equipment Safety Inspect electric tools for damage to cords, plugs and wiring. Take the tool to a qualified professional for repair. Protect yourself from injury. Turn the electric tool off, unplug it and put it in the “lock” position when carrying or connecting attachments such as mower baskets or saw blades. Never leave electric tools unattended where children or other unqualified adults can misuse it. Store electric tools indoors to keep them protected from damage caused by water and excessive heat. Protect Yourself Safety devices on yard and other outdoor electric tools are there for a reason. Make sure that they are always in place before operating. Invest in safety goggles, hearing protection, dust masks, gloves and other safety equipment as recommended for each tool. Wear the appropriate clothes for the job. Never Take Electricity For Granted A GFCI outlet will automatically disconnect power when a plugged in electric decoration comesin contact with water or begins to “leak” electricity. The National Electric Code now requires GFCIs in bathrooms, garages, kitchens and outdoor outlets. Protect outlets from the elements by making sure that they are covered when not in use. To help prevent electrical fires, keep dry leaves and other debris swept away from outdoor lighting, outlets and power cords. Extension Cords Safety When working outdoors, use only weather-resistant heavy gauge extension cords marked “for outdoor use.” These weather resistant cords have added safeguards designed to withstand the outdoor environment. Examine cords before each use. Damaged cords should be replaced immediately. Extension cords are for short term use and not for long term power solutions. Keep all outdoor extension cords and light strands clear of snow and standing water, and well protected from the elements. Keep your work area clean and free from debris. Power Lines: Working Safety Around Them Use wooden or fiberglass ladders when working near electrical wiring. Metal ladders conduct electricity. Check the surrounding area to ensure that you will not accidentally come in contact with overhead power lines. Remember that power lines are underground as well. Before you dig to plant a tree or put in a fence, call 811 to have them come and mark all of the utility lines. Generators Safety Check smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors monthly. Never operate the generator in enclosed or partially enclosed spaces. Use carbon monoxide detectors in nearby enclosed spaces to monitor levels. Generators can produce high levels of carbon monoxide very quickly, which can be deadly. Do not connect generators directly to household wiring without an appropriate transfer switch installed. Power from generators connected directly to household wiring can backfeed along power lines and electrocute anyone coming in contact with them, including lineworkers making repairs. Make sure your generator is properly grounded. Use a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) to help prevent electrocutions and electrical shock injuries. Keep the generator dry. Make sure extension cords used with generators are rated for the load, and are free of cuts, worn insulation, and have three-pronged plugs. Do not overload the generator. A portable generator should be used only when necessary, and only to power essential equipment or appliances. Make sure fuel for the generator is stored safely, away from living areas, in properly labeled containers, and away from fuel-burning appliances. Before re-fueling, always turn the generator off and let it cool down. Turn off all appliances powered by the generator before shutting down the generator. Keep children away from portable generators at all times. ESFI reminds everyone that electricity is a powerful tool. It can also be a lethal hazard. Better safety standards have reduced electrical hazards that cause deaths, injuries and property damage. But good safety habits are still the best prevention against electrical hazards. For additional electrical safety information, visit the foundation’s web site at www.electrical-safety.org or call 703-841-3229.